Automated Textile Sorting: Paving the Way for a Circular Fashion Economy

One of the most significant bottlenecks in this process is textile sorting – a complex, labor-intensive task that has historically hindered the viability of large-scale recycling. Traditional sorting methods, while essential for promoting reuse and supporting the social and solidarity economy, rely heavily on manual labor. To enhance efficiency and accuracy, especially given the complexity of textile materials, blends, colors, and components like zippers and buttons, automated sorting serves as a crucial complement. This integration is a necessary step before recycling, bridging the gap between reuse and effective material recovery.

THE COMPLEXITY OF TEXTILE SORTING

Textile sorting is not merely about separating cotton from polyester. Modern garments often consist of blended fibers, such as cotton-polyester or wool-acrylic mixes, which are difficult to distinguish visually or by touch. Moreover, garments may include non-textile elements – metal fasteners, plastic trims, or synthetic linings – that must be removed before recycling.

Another layer of complexity arises from the need to sort by color. Mechanical recycling processes, such as tearing fibers for reuse, typically do not involve re-dyeing. Therefore, color sorting is essential to ensure the recycled output meets aesthetic and quality standards.

These challenges have long made post-consumer textile recycling economically unfeasible at scale. However, recent technological advancements are beginning to change that narrative.

ANDRITZ AND THE FUTURE OF AUTOMATED SORTING

In response to these challenges, ANDRITZ, in collaboration with Nouvelles Fibres Textiles and Pellenc ST, has developed a pioneering automated sorting line in Amplepuis, France. This facility represents a major breakthrough in textile recycling technology.

It is dedicated to sorting and recycling post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste in industrial scale. By combining advanced engineering with cutting-edge technologies such as infrared spectroscopy and digital vision systems, the sorting line accurately identifies fiber compositions and colors. Integrated mechanical systems efficiently remove non-textile components, preparing materials for downstream recycling processes like tearing, carding, or chemical treatment.

This innovative new concept not only increases sorting speed and accuracy but also significantly reduces labor costs, making textile recycling more economically viable. The sorted materials can be transformed into new yarns, nonwoven fabrics, or composite materials, contributing to a more circular and sustainable textile economy.

In addition to the facility at Nouvelles Fibres Textiles, the sorting specialist Pellenc ST operates several technical centers in the USA, France, Japan, and Australia for conducting automated sorting trials.

TOWARD A CIRCULAR FUTURE

The implementation of automated sorting technologies marks a turning point in the global effort to reduce textile waste. By addressing the core challenges of fiber identification, color sorting, and contamination removal, ANDRITZ is laying the groundwork for a closed-loop textile system.

As regulatory deadlines approach and consumer demand for sustainable fashion grows, the importance of such innovations cannot be overstated. Automated textile sorting and the right preparation of textile waste for recycling is not just a technical achievement – it is a cornerstone of the circular economy the fashion industry so urgently needs.